CAPITAL TIME

A six-day tour of Baguio, followed by Clark and Subic Bay, brings home why the 'flower city' of the Philippines is rated so highly by foreign tourists

PICHAYA SVASTI

Swirling across mountains like a ribbon is Kennon Road as it zigzags past slopes and a lush valley to the city of Baguio, 266 kilometres north of Manila and about 1,500 metres above sea level.

Houses on the mountain slopes of Benguet.

Taking this curvy route is a thrilling experience complimented by scenic views of Baguio nestled in the Cordillera mountain range. Covering an area of 57 square kilometres Baguio, also known as the Flower City of the North, is summer capital of the Philippines.

Sparsely populated, it is a melting pot of races and cultures - Filipino, Chinese, Malay and indigenous people such as the Ibalois original settlers, Ifugaos, Bontocs, Kankanais and Kalingas who account for 10 per cent of the population.

Cool weather and beautiful mountain views here may remind some visitors of Switzerland, but Baguio mayor Reinaldo A. Bautista Jr insists his hometown is unique, like no other place on earth.

"Nothing can compare to Baguio. Nothing here is artificial, and we are determined to keep it that way and preserve our culture," he said.

According to the mayor, Baguio is a popular destination because of its good location and nice weather. It is only 45 minutes from the beach and 25 minutes from hot springs. A lot of resorts here are well-known among the Japanese, Korean and European travellers.

"We have lakes, cowboys, military parades and flower festivals to go with the 103-year-old Baguio Country Club and Mines View Park where you can enjoy beautiful sunrise," he noted proudly.

Baguio is also popular for hosting festivities and celebrations all year round. An important event here is the Panagbenga Flower Festival held every February that showcases flower floats, ethnic dances, music and a parade of costumes in which indigenous people representing various ethnic groups march wearing nothing but red thongs and feather hats wielding spears and shields.

Built in 1908, The Mansion has played summer home to Filipino presidents for a century.	Baguio City Market is a paradise for shoppers.

"During the month-long festival roads are closed to vehicles. A lot of dancing featuring flowers in bloom at that time of the year is part of the tradition," the mayor explained.

The reason why Baguio is called the Philippines' summer capital is The Mansion, the official summer residence of Filipino presidents for a century - since the colonial days. Built in 1908 initially for American governors-general, everything about The Mansion is so American, except for its main gate and the pool, the former modelled after England's Buckingham Palace, while the pool in front apes the one at India's Taj Mahal, seeking to recreate similar ambience. Nearby is Wright Park that boasts a stable of horses and ponies that visitors can hire and enjoy a ride.

Strawberries jam and wine from Baguio are famous products.

A must-see attraction is Camp John Hay, a former American military barrack now turned hotel. The Second World War arrived in the Philippines with the bombing of Camp John Hay and ended on September 3, 1945, with the signing of the surrender pact by Gen Tomoyuki Yamashita at the US ambassador's residence in Baguio.

Other tourist spots include the Baguio Country Club, oldest in the country and founded by the Americans, and the Baguio Cathedral or the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Atonement that survived several bombing raids during World War II. Painted in pink and white, this church with red roof is where Christians - the majority of Baguio's population - go to pray and find solace. Next door is the SM shopping mall with a scenic view point from where you can almost see the entire city.

Mines View Point for tourists to enjoy scenery of the Caraballo and Cordillera mountains.	Dancing dolphins and feeding sharks at the Ocean Adventure marine park in Subic Bay.

There is a saying, "You haven't been to Baguio if you didn't go boating on Burnham Lake." The lake in Burnham Park is named after architect Daniel Hudson Burnham who carried out the city planning. Beyond the lake stands the white Baguio City Hall, tall and graceful.

Away from its touristy side, Baguio is home to the Philippine Military Academy, the country's equivalent of the United States' West Point, that's been churning out officers for its armed forces for almost a century, and Baguio Teachers' Camp where national-level athletes and Filipinos in the teaching profession go for higher training, making it a ranking destination for education and national development.

Kennon Road snakes past this beautiful valley lush with vegetation en route to Baguio city.

Says mayor Bautista Jr, Baguio is a suitable place for students and honeymooners alike because of its serenity, and shoppers looking for local goods and souvenirs at bargain prices will find it a paradise.

At Baguio City Market, shoppers can find a broad range of goods from food, fruit and vegetables to hand-woven fabrics, silver jewellery, handicrafts and wooden furniture. Fresh strawberries, berry and mulberry jam, wine and freshly roasted coffee beans make enticing buys, as do handwoven clothes.

Spears and weapons used by the Aetas on display at Clark Museum.	On the way from Clark to Baguio, a stunning view of Mt. Pinatubo that last erupted in 1991.

For those who love nightlife, Session Road is the place to be. It is a business area by day but glitters at night with spotlights gleamed from bars and pubs. After sunset, visitors can be seen strolling up and down this road enjoying drinks and music at places that open all night.

About 45 minutes' drive from Baguio is the province of Benguet, the "Salad Bowl of the Philippines", reputed for its vegetables and flowers, and especially the strawberry farms and orchards in the municipality of La Trinidad. Benguet has a population of 100,000 and boasts 8,000 hectares of farmland, with red strawberry belts dominating its landscape.

These days it's quite convenient travelling from Bangkok to Baguio and Benguet, particularly for those wanting to skip Manila, for you can fly direct to Clark, a special economic zone, and then travel by car or bus to Baguio.

The road trip from Clark to Baguio takes about seven hours but along the way you are rewarded with marvellous scenery, including Mt. Pinatubo in Zambales which last erupted on June 15, 1991, burying several houses and farmland.

Alternatively, travellers can stop by for some fun in Clark and neighbouring Subic Bay Leisure Zone before heading to Baguio.

The Aetas or Negritos are an indegenous tribe of the Philippines.

Clark, a former US Air Force base, is home to duty-free shops, hotels and resorts, golf courses and parks Fontana and Mimosa. It plays host to the Hot Air Balloon Festival every February. Another attraction is Clark Museum where visitors can learn everything they need to know about Clark, right from the Aetas or Negritos, an indigenous tribe who are the country's original inhabitants, to the American way of life.

"The museum is the best attempt to reconstruct the history of Clark since the Americans first arrived here in 1902, when this place was nothing but a forest," a senior staff at the museum said.

With the help of a rare collection of old photos, war weapons and artefacts, the museum vividly reflects the historical importance of Clark.

Fifty-five kilometres from Clark is Subic Bay. This port city has everything: it can cater to every taste ranging from world-class accommodation, duty-free shops, jungle tours, water sports, trekking and diving to adventure.

Top destinations in Subic include the Ocean Adventure marine park, Zoobic Safari, the Jungle and Environmental Survival Training (JEST) Camp, Treetop Adventure, and Jungle Joe's World, an amusement park.

The two days I spent there didn't seem enough to take in everything Subic has to offer travellers. At Ocean Adventure, I watched dancing dolphins and sea lions, while Zoobic Safari proved a thriller after two big Bengal tigers came agonisingly close to our jeep and one of them jumped up the roof, walked back and forth, then reached down with its paws for chicken meat. JEST Camp taught me basic jungle survival skills like cooking and lighting fire using bamboo wood, while Treetop Adventure produced a rush of adrenaline after I joined the activities available to tourists, from a perch 100 feet above unspoiled rainforest, that were as much fun as a challenge.

And with that ended my trip. Flying back to Suvarnabhumi Airport, the sun was setting, and my body and legs in dire need of a rest after six tiring yet pleasant days in Clark, Subic and Baguio that proved beyond doubt the nation's northern Luzon region is a treasure waiting to be explored and appreciated.

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