EMILIO PUCCI FALL-WINTER 2009 COLLECTION
Fashion aristocracy
- Published: 11/09/2009 at 12:00 AM
- Newspaper section: Realtime
More than just a centuries-old horse race, the Palio of Siena is a famous festival with colourful parades and lively celebrations that draw a big crowd to the Tuscan town. In 1957, Emilio Pucci rolled out a collection inspired by the Palio and the spectacular graphics of its 16th-century banners. Half a century later, Palio prints make a comeback on the Italian brand's Fall-Winter 2009 catwalk.
Pucci’s fallwinter designs draw inspiration from the 1957 Palio collection.
Crowned as the Prince of Prints, the aristocratic designer became a fashion phenomenon in the 1950s when he began developing his signature prints in graphic and abstract designs, which swirled in a kaleidoscope of colour. Emilio Pucci also pioneered stretch fabrics to liberate women from corsets and rigid structured clothing.
The Palio collection, as one of such noble heritage, becomes a foundation for the new designs by artistic director Peter Dundas.
This season, the rebellious aristocratic Pucci girl throws on tunics and trousers, cashmere T-shirts and aged deerskin pants under a luscious fox fur thrown casually over her shoulders. She also dons fur-lined biker blousons or oversized silk smoking jackets in bold Palio prints, accessorised with chain-edged shoulder bags in distressed denim or matte python.
Trousers pays tribute to the Capri pant, a staple of Pucci collections. After beginning his fashion career by creating streamlined ski-outfits, Emilio Pucci opened a boutique in Capri notable for colourful resort clothing, including tight Capri pants. The new versions come in faded printed cotton canvas or as slinky cargo trousers in military green or as embroidered suede pants with horse motifs in scarab-coloured gems. Shorts in leather and cotton canvas also refer to the Palio silhouettes.
Mini-dresses in prints that seem washed and faded to recall iconic pieces of the past are worn with slouchy suede pirate boots for daytime chic. Evening dresses feature patchworks and cut-outs of Pucci-patterned guipure lace and beading that reinterpret the graphic motifs and delicately play on the lines of the body.
Over black, bottle green and aubergine dresses, barbarian coats of mohair-patched fur, leather and gold braiding keeps the Pucci chic and warm. RT
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